Product Review: .30/06 The Best Cartridge Ever?

The other day someone asked an interesting question on HuntingBC.ca. “If the .30/60 cartridge would come on the market today would it have a chance to become a success with the hunters?” With all the hype today about magnums and super magnums this is a very interesting question and one I would like to spend a little more time and space to answer here.

Like so many things hunting related the .30/06 came to us from the army. The .30/06 was originally (U.S. Cartridge, Model of 1903) loaded with a rather slow moving 220-grain bullet, designed for the Springfield Model 1903 bolt action rifle. In 1905 the Imperial German Army came up with a 8mm (.323) round, which fired a lighter and faster bullet that left the ’03 in the dust. Not to be outdone the U.S. Army quickly modified the ’30 to take 150-grain bullet that too could reach way out there and touch somebody and renamed it “U.S. Cartridge Model of 1906.” What a mouthful to say. So people have renamed it more economically to .30/06 (30 for the cartridge and 06 for the year). Ever since we know it simply as .30/60

What the army achieved with the .30/06 was a cartridge that struck an ideal balance between extreme power (at the time) and recoil. It is this ideal combination that made this cartridge so immensely popular with the hunters. The light recoil meant everybody, even a child, could shoot it for a long time without ending up having to nurse sore shoulders from the recoil at the end of the day. But what really made this cartridge really popular with everybody is the vast number of loads available in the .30/06 variations. It is this variety that made it the all around hunting cartridge it is. Regardless of what you are after, there is no game animal in North America, including the bison that some .30/06 configuration can’t handle well. At the lower end you can go as low as 110 grains and at the heavier end you can fire a 220-grain slug. This will take you from the mouse to the moose all with one cartridge.

Moreover, the .30/06 is now even more powerful than when it first appeared. Because the relatively slow burning gunpowders we have today produce much higher velocities than the propellants that where available before WWI. For example the standard muzzle velocity for the Army issue 150-grain bullet was around 2700 fps, (Feet per second). Most current factory loads today will push that same bullet with around 2900 fps. This occurs right trough the entire range of bullets weights. So now we not only have a good all-round cartridge but also one that shoots quit flat.

Having a cartridge with so many configurations can cause for some confusion. Here’s a brief, but by no means complete, guide: 125 and 130-grain. These bullets are perfect weights for varmints. 150-grain is in my opinion the best of all the deer hunting bullet weights. The 165-grain bullet might be, according to many of the best hunters, the best bullet with enough velocity and punch to take most critters in North America. But if you really want to make sure you have enough power then you go with the 180-grain. For the biggest critters around, such a grizzly, musk ox and bison a 200-grain bullet will leave no doubt behind. The 200-grain .30 bullet might not be the fasted, but it withstands wind well and packs enough downrange power and incredible penetration strength to put every elk, moose, bear, or even bigger African plains swiftly down.

So, do I think that if the .30/06 would be a success if it would come on the market today? You bet it would be. Most hunters do not want, or can’t afford, to have a cabinet full of specialized rifles in different cartridge sizes. What they want is an affordable, easy to handle cartridge that they can use just about anywhere they are ever likely to hunt. Be that in the hardwood forest of the Midwest for whitetails or go after Antelopes in New Mexico’s plains or elk in the foothills of Colorado. The .30/06 is still the best selling cartridge, in fact it sells so good no advertising is needed. Yet the magnums and super magnums are advertised very heavily and still have not managed, as hoped, to push the .30/06 in the gutter. I will go as far as to predict that in 20 years from now, when all the magnums have to make room to another new and hyped up cartridge, the versatile .30/06 still will be around and as much enjoyed as it has been the past 100+ years.

Hunting: Go Get Your Gobbler

Here are some basic guidelines to keep in mind when setting up on any gobbling bird:
Think ahead - If you are walking around and stopping to call occasionally, trying to get a gobbler to respond, try to stop in a spot that has a handy place to set up since many times the bird will be close and you need to get ready immediately.

Look for obstacles - When you get a bird to respond, quickly determine where the gobbler is located and what lies between you and the bird. If the gobbler has to hop a fence, climb down a hill, bust through some brush and cross a creek to get to you , odds are he's not going to go to that much trouble. This is not to say it's impossible, but you may as well increase your odds of success by moving and giving the gobbler a clearer path to your calling location.

When possible, try and get on the same elevation as the bird or above him. They will come downhill to your calling but they are much more comfortable coming to a location that is at the same level they are or higher. Turkey experts seem to think this has something to do with their basic survival instincts since it is much easier for them to spring into the air and avoid a predator when they are walking uphill. Or it could be they are like me and walking downhill hurts their knees and ankles more. Who knows.

Try to set up against a tree that is wider than your back - This will break up your outline better and also has the safety advantage of protecting your back if someone should sneak in behind you and accidentally send a shot in your direction. Many times, finding a big enough tree is not possible due to the fact there may not be any trees that big in the terrain you are hunting. Wide stumps, rocks and bushes or brush can be used if the terrain doesn't have any large trees. My last resort is setting up against a small tree in the open but I have done this and been successful. Another option when there really is nothing except some grass and weeds (Those of you who hunt Rio's or Merriam's especially) is to go prone. Laying prone is often very successful because when you think about where a turkey is looking from, his eyes are only 3 to 4 feet high and he can't really see that well into that grass patch up ahead of him.

Remove all sticks and leaves from your sitting area - This not only makes you more comfortable but it also eliminates much of the noise you make while sitting there. I do like to keep some leaves to scratch by my side if I can since this can often bring in a tom when nothing else will.

Minimize the chances for the gobbler to see you. I try and do several things to maximize my chances when a bird is coming in. First, if possible, I'll set up in an area where I won't be able to see the bird until he is in range. Conversely, the gobbler won't be able to see me either. When I set up on a ridge top and I'm calling a bird below me, I'll try and sit back from the rim far enough that I won't see the bird until he is in range. I'll also take advantage of any low brush around the tree I'm sitting against to break up my outline and sometimes I will move or cut some nearby brush or low branches for extra cover. The low brush or a low-profile blind will hide all of your hand movements when you're using a slate or box call. Another thing I like to do when I'm using decoys is to set the decoy off to the side of the direction I think the bird is coming from so when he gets close and he's staring that decoy down, I'm not sitting directly in his line of sight. This is a hunting tactic which is often used while duck hunting also.

Sit down and get comfortable - Many times you will have to wait an hour or more for a gobbler to come in all of the way. Try and get as comfortable as possible and lay out the various calls you are going to use so you can quickly get yours hands on any of them. This is also a good time to get out the sand paper or Scotch- Brite type scouring pad and condition any friction calls that you will be using.

Point your left shoulder (if right-handed) in the direction you think the gobbler will approach from - This will give you the maximum possible range of motion in case the gobbler circles and comes in from the side or another bird comes in from behind you. At best you can cover about 180 degrees. There are times when you still can't turn your body enough to get a shot. That is when you may have to try a left-handed shot (if you're right-handed). This is something most people never practice but it never hurts to practice moving your shotgun to your opposite shoulder and shooting with your opposite eye. You can be just as effective off both shoulders if you practice a little and if you hunt turkeys long enough, you'll be glad you did some day.

Get your gun ready - At this point, you are seated and ready to begin calling the bird in all of the way. This is a good time to check your gun to make sure it is loaded and ready. Some hunters do not even load their gun until they are set up which is ultimately the safest way of hunting. I used to be one of these until I clicked on an empty chamber one day while a huge gobbler stood there looking. I now carry a loaded gun once I leave my vehicle and it stays that way until I stop hunting for the day. I am pretty paranoid about checking the safety often while I'm moving around and as long as you are careful and use good common sense, I don't see any reason to not keep your gun loaded all of the time.

If you plan on using slate or box calls in your calling, place the gun in your lap with the muzzle pointed in the general direction of the gobbler. Hunters who use the mouth call exclusively have the advantage of being able to get their knee up and their shotgun raised and pointed in the general direction of the gobbling turkey well before it is in range.

Start calling - If you are like me and like using a lot of slate and friction calls, you cannot always keep your gun up and across one knee when you are calling a bird in. That's OK. Just start calling anyway and when the bird does get in view, you can wait until he crosses behind a tree or some other object and then raise your gun. If all else fails, you can slowly raise your gun on a gobbler in the open. He will sometimes see you and spook but it's worth a try anyway.

Shoot and celebrate - If everything else goes according to plans, you now have a gobbler in front of you within range. All you have to do is put your sights on his neck and pull the trigger!

Good luck!

Hunting: Selecting a Weapon for Turkey Hunting

Turkeys have been successfully hunted with everything from the rifle to the handgun and bows. But the all time favourite turkey-hunting weapon is the 12-gauge shotgun. As the popularity of turkey hunting increases so does the development of special and improved shotguns specifically for turkey hunting. The modern turkey shotgun comes now even with a complete cam finish from the muzzle to the shoulder butt and composite stocks, super full turkey chocks and chambered for magnum loads of 3 ½” plus shorter barrels.

But do you need such a powerful super modern gun for turkey hunting? To tell you the truth, the answer is no. Hunters have been shooting turkeys successfully for many decades with these powerful artilleries. But if you think that you need such a powerful monster and can handle the kick then by all means go and buy one. But for a lot less money and just as potent on turkeys you can do very well with just about any 12 gauge shotgun quit nicely.

Selecting a Shotgun

What should you look for in a turkey gun? In my opinion, the most important thing is to find a shotgun you can shoot comfortably. With that I mean a gun that fits you and balances well when you hold or put it to your shoulder. The gun should also be of a moderate weight, not much heavier than 7lb. You do an awful lot of walking when turkey hunting and believe me, a gun seems to get heavier as the day wears on and at the end of day might very well feel like it weighs a ton.
In short you want a gun that you feel comfortable with and have confidence in. Confidence and comfort play a big part in hunting, not only turkey hunting.

Gauge

The vast majority of turkey hunters hunt with 12 gauge shotguns and for good reason. The 12-gauge gun can be considered an all-round hunting gun for all upland and small game hunting and it comes in huge mass of different models, makes and assortment of fodder. Name the game and you will likely find many different loads suitable in the 12-gauge configuration.
There are of course others like the 20 gauge and the 10 gauge shotguns. But to be honest with you, to me it makes no sense whatsoever to drag a cannon like a 10-gauge around all day. It’s a bit like hammering a nail in the wall with a sledgehammer. Makes no sense to me to be frank.

Barrel Length

This is another important consideration. If you are using a shotgun for turkey hunting only then I would go with the newer shorter barrels. A short barrel makes for a lighter gun and is easier to manoeuvre around in the woods. If you use your gun also for upland and waterfowl hunting then I would go with a standard 28” barrel as a standard size do it all barrel.
Load Patterning

Okay now we have the gun. Now comes the most important part of getting the main ingredient for a turkey dinner. If alleles is said and done it all boils down to one thing. Making the shot and getting as many pellets into a turkey’s noggin as possible, these are though critter to get on the ground and make them stay there. A turkey can take a licking and still keeps on ticking. It is here where some hunters make a big mistake. They screw an extra full choke at business end of the barrel then they buy any old shot shells and head for the woods. Afterwards these hunters wonder why the tom run away and kept laughing at them despite having fired two shots at the turkey.
You have to pattern you shotgun load, believe me it is vital that you get with each shot a tight pattern out to 35 to 40 yards. With a little time and fiddling around with load and choke combinations that is not impossible. But it needs time and commitment to do it right. If your gun despite all your efforts shoots off the point of aim then there are two things you can. The proper thing to do is to bring the gun to a certified gunsmith and have him bent or straighten the barrel for. A cheaper solution would be to buy a special shotgun and fix it to fit your gun. Then adjust the scope until the load patterns where you’re aiming at.
Most turkey hunters, including yours truly, prefer copper platted shot in the sizes of #4, #5, #6. These pellets sizes have proven to pattern well when shot trough a super tight choke and the copper platting will prevent fliers that are deformed pellets resulting from being squeezed at high velocities trough a tight hole.
If your shotgun is ready to be taken to the woods on a turkey hunt it should pattern about a baseball sized ring out to 35 to 40 yards. With today’s new shot shells that is not impossible to achieve with a little time. Remember that you need to pattern every shotgun even if they come from the same manufacturer and are the exact same model; this does not mean that they also like to eat the same food.
And then when it all is done right and you are ready to go out and fill your turkey tag remember to aim your gun at the turkeys head and not on his body. The head is the only place where you can kill a turkey outright with a shotgun.